a.Cute skirt, good fit. I don't like quick and dirty finishes, so made a few adjustments to the hem, and added a proper button placket. Have already made a second with a couple more mods :)
I received this lovely review this morning and it reminded me that I hadn’t listened to the Pogues in a while. In particular, Dirty Old Town, I love that song. Anyway, I thought I would take this opportunity to talk about finishes.
In the design process. I envisage the finishes I need to use to achieve the look I want. As a women, those finishes and "the look", change all the time. Just like fashion I guess?
If you have sewn the Hannah Dress or Evie skirt you will notice I have used a facing instead of a button stand. A button stand is great, it's fun to learn and is wonderful finish for shirts, jackets, button front skirts and blouses. I call it a button stand, but others will refer to it as a placket. I use the term placket for an opening in the top of a skirt, pants, tops or a sleeve that is finished with a cuff. Either term is correct.
I chose the facing because I wanted a clean, soft, no fuss finish for the front of my dress and skirt. I didn’t want visible stitching along the front of the garment. I first envisaged this skirt in a satin with a hand sewn hemline. So no stitching along the front or hemline of the skirt. That was my vision and as the designer, my choice. Choices are a beautiful thing wouldn’t you say?
The finishes designers use with their garments aren't boxed into what is right or wrong. It's the final look of the design and what works best for the structure of the garment. A certain finish may very well restrict the fabric that can be used with the design. I personally like to use different finishes in the designs I create to give sewist options. I try to use different methods for the same process in each design. These alternate methods are not restricted to the garment they are sewing either. They are useful for furthering a sewists knowledge and can be used, or not, on any project.
Let's talk about my dirty old finishes on my hems. I draft the pattern and give the sewist the option of two length hemlines in most cases. I prefer a 5 cm (2") hem but many ladies like a smaller option. I try to use different methods on each design I do as well. The DeeDee Dress and Hannah Dress both have the same hemline and widths. Instead of showing the same method on both designs, I chose to do it differently. You can use either method on each garment or on another project if you wish. The hemline is a fixed width and the sewist has the option of finishing that hem as desired. As a sewist, you choose the finishes and construction methods that you prefer to use. In my perfect world, every sewist would own a hemming machine and there would be no visible sewn hemlines. That is how I feel today, but I might not like that look tomorrow. I like change and that is a good thing considering the business I’m in. I also don’t believe in right and wrong when it comes to sewing. It would be all sorts of boring to sit with one method or finish for the rest of my life. I like to stay open and I love learning, so having one right way of finishing items would feel restrictive. It would probably be the death of fashion too. Could you imagine a world full of button stands and double folded hems on everything? I personally don’t want to live in that world.
At any rate finishes and fashion change just as the machines, techniques and fabrics we use do. It’s a necessary art form that has moved with the times but is still respectful of the techniques from the past. Every finish has its place and every seamstress has the option of learning, the how to’s and why’s of the finishes they use.